Political merchandise has surged in popularity this year, as fashion brands urged customers to vote via slogan tees, masks and even gowns. The question of whether pro-civic duty products had an impact on America swinging blue is by the by: the industry stood up for itself when facing the prospect of another four years of alienation under the Trump administration.
A merch line is a useful way of igniting a conversation, or promoting a school of thought which might otherwise feel at odds with the mood of a designer’s mainline collections. For Christopher Kane, his message is simple: “More Joy”. “Most people are inherently hopeful – we all want to see good – but sometimes we just need a little reminder to stay positive,” Kane tells British Vogue of his slogan-meets-mantra line. What started out as T-shirts, phone cases and socks that read “Sex”, “Special”, and “More Joy” has expanded into a comprehensive lifestyle offering, comprising dressing gowns, door mats and coasters. For Christmas, there’s even wrapping paper.
“The idea is that when you surround yourself with things that reinforce positivity it can really impact your mood,” says Kane, referring to the genesis of the brand’s daily motto during the creation of the autumn/winter 2018 collection. “We knew soon after the show that More Joy was something we wanted to keep talking about and that it had the potential to become a line in its own right.”
There are limitless possibilities for the talismans of hope, which excites Kane. “More Joy is important as it allows us to continually converse with our customers about what inspires us (sex, human behaviours), in a much more simple and focused way,” he explains. “It also gives us the opportunity to design with a more minimalist approach, producing evergreen products for everyday life. More Joy is the perfect sidekick to Christopher Kane; it shares the same vision but is positioned differently and designed to reach a larger audience.” The prices, which start at £10, reflect this inclusive brand messaging.
The motivation to create products for positivity’s sake is mirrored at Paco Rabanne. The brand has just revisited its “Lose Yourself” collaboration with Peter Saville owing to the popularity of the spring/summer 2019 capsule, which found fans in Rihanna and Selena Gomez. “Youthful, expressive, even a little mystical, Lose Yourself transports us with lightness that will be especially welcome through the winter months,” says the brand of the new pink and blue tie-dye pieces, which expand on the previous lilac offering. “Wear these pieces as a souvenir of warmer times, or of the release we hope is ahead.”
The unisex collection is rooted in creative director Julien Dossena’s obsession with Saville’s work. “Looking back at what he did for the music industry and in particular his collaboration with New Order, he brings so much research and so many references to the table,” notes Dossena of the art director and graphic designer. For Saville’s part, he says the pieces “quote the language and mood of the transcendental”. Indeed, there is something particularly dreamy about the nostalgic Woodstock print.
“After the year we’ve had, it’s more important than ever to stop and reflect on how fortunate we are to have good health and family and friends,” chimes in Kane. The fact that a host of celebrities – from Zendaya to Kylie Minogue to Alexa Chung – have bought into his tongue-in-cheek basics must also be good for his brand’s bottom line.
But merch is not a new proposition, nor a product of the turbulent times we live in. Marc Jacobs, the original merch man, has always supplemented his luxury fashion with something affordable and accessible – be it a branded keyring or a pen. When Bookmarc – his business partner Robert Duffy’s solution to bookshops closing – opened in 2010, Jacobs’s stationery flew off the shelves far more quickly than the rare literary titles.
Rihanna modelling the Paco Rabanne x Peter Saville SS19 line.
Upon launching The Marc Jacobs – a subsection of the Marc Jacobs world focusing on singular items, rather than entire collections – last year, he spoke of the merit of all products. “It is about pieces, not necessarily a head-to-toe look,” he told Vogue of his non-runway line. “That includes keychains, tees, totes, etc. I love anything that has the authenticity and integrity of what it is.”
Because, at the end of the day, aren’t we all searching for authenticity? Merch is a great equaliser.
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