ELV Denim is an acronym for East London Vintage, to reflect the creative neighbourhood where Foster lives. Her brand’s collections are produced using unwanted denim sourced from UK vintage warehouses, which would have otherwise gone to landfill.
Anna Foster, founder of ELV Denim
Foster grew up in Woodford Green, on the borders of Essex and east London, and lived in Los Angeles for a year while studying American Studies at the University of Exeter. Like much of the industry, she is currently working from home, which is five minutes away from her studio in Dalston, east London.
The brand launched in 2017, is stocked in store at The Factory in Dalston, online at Elvdenim.com and across eight etailers including Net-a-Porter and Shop Bop.
What’s the first thing you do when you get up in the morning?
I have a cup of hot water and give my kids a cuddle, and then I do a 15-minute meditation. During this lockdown I began to meditate using the Calm app. It has been literally transformative.
What was your first job?
After university, my first “proper job” was at Time Inc in the marketing department. Although I enjoyed working with the team, it didn’t feel I was supposed to be there. I had never thought that I could have a job in fashion: I was brought up to think of traditional careers.
While I was at Time, I knew I wanted something different. I did some research and realised I could create a career from my passion, fashion styling. Who knew? I started a work experience position at i-D magazine, and then from there I spent 20 years styling.
#ELVfamily campaign includes Foster’s friends Candice Fragis, fashion director of Drest and artist Sara Berman
What’s your coffee (or tea) order?
Earl Grey tea. I literally dream of my first cup of tea. It has to be in a Wedgwood bone china cup.
Last fashion purchase? Why did it catch your eye?
I bought a beautiful Mother of Pearl jacket. It’s white and slightly oversized with frayed thread fringing. I buy pieces with conscious consumerism in mind. I always ask myself: will I love this for years? If so, then I will buy the item.
Emails or phone calls?
Phone calls – a lot can be sorted in one phone call and you get to know the person on the phone, rather than a signature at the end of the email.
Most important lesson you’ve learned during your career?
You can always learn from mistakes and the things that go wrong. It’s quite a hard concept to grasp. I don’t know when it clicked, but now I see a mistake as part of the learning curve.
Foster’s husband Toby and daughter Maisie also feature in the campaign
What has been your proudest moment since you launched?
I can’t choose one. Having Net-a-Porter as my first ever retailer. Seeing my jeans in Selfridges with their own display: the biggest it has ever had in the Denim Studio. But each time I get an email or message to say that a customer loves my jeans, that moment of pride will never go.
What’s your favourite part of the creative process?
Designs tend to come quite naturally and organically, so when a piece isn’t working properly it can be frustrating. When the solution comes to you out of nowhere and you have that “eureka” moment – that’s amazing.
Also, working with the different people that are part of the creative process is a real pleasure. Each person is very special to me.
Who in the fashion/retail industry inspires you?
Orsola de Castro [founder of Fashion Revolution] and [journalist] Tamsin Blanchard, who I have had the pleasure of meeting and working with. They have been championing these causes [sustainability in the fashion industry] for decades, and now finally everyone is listening.
What, apart from Covid-19, is the biggest challenge facing fashion today?
Managing the expectations of the fashion industries. We have this crazy schedule with four showing seasons – a pressure to create newness all the time, when we just need to slow down.
Brands are over-producing just in case they run out – the idea of a customer having to wait for a product is unthinkable. But in fact the amount of post-consumer fashion waste that is discarded is unthinkable. We need to take time to appreciate what we purchase, and not succumb to over-consumption. We need to buy better and buy less.
The #ELVfamily campaign includes Foster’s friends and family
What are you looking forward to most in the year ahead?
Before Covid-19, my focus was growing the business. I still have this focus, but I have to see this enforced pause as a time to reflect, to make sure the business is grounded, so it can grow from a good place.
I am so lucky to work with so many genuine and honest people, and as we all start back up, I have every confidence for the year ahead, and this extended ELV Denim family will increase.
What do you think the fashion industry can learn from the consequences of the Covid-19 pandemic?
I would like to hope that the way so many brands from all industries have banded together for the greater good, would be the way forward to reset the standards, values and the ‘templates’ of production.
Luxury fashion needs to look after the smaller brands so that everyone has an equal chance to thrive. It also needs to encourage the industry to slow down, reduce the quantity of what is produced and celebrate the quality.
